Whats the flop at the top of a shirt called năm 2024

The history of the locker loop, a little detail that dates back to the first half of the 20th century.

Whats the flop at the top of a shirt called năm 2024
Henry Phillips

More likely than not, you’ve seen it. You might even be wearing one: a small loop of fabric located at the back of a shirt.

Commonly known as a locker loop, this little detail at the back of the collar or at the center of the yoke (the panel of fabric that spans the upper portion of the shirt, from shoulder to shoulder) has a very specific purpose that goes all the way back to the mid-1900s.

The locker loop is said to have first appeared on the garments of sailors. With limited room, ships were outfitted with space-saving lockers instead of closets. Because these lockers weren’t wide enough to accommodate a clothing hanger, shirts were sewn with fabric loops that could hang on hooks inside of the lockers. Hanging, instead of folding, prevented wrinkles.

The locker loop gained popularity and eventually made its way onto dry land when Gant Shirtmakers incorporated the detail into its line of oxford cloth button-downs. As the official fashion brand of Yale, Gant produced shirts that were a mainstay on the New Haven campus, informing popular men’s style throughout the US in the 1950s and 1960s.

Whats the flop at the top of a shirt called năm 2024
The locker loop on a J.Crew oxford shirt ($78).Henry Phillips

Locker loops were used in collegiate locker rooms, but as the style became more popular, the loop took on another purpose off the hook. It eventually became a way to signal romantic intent and young women would tear the loops from the shirts of the young men they fancied. Some of these young men would even cut off the loops altogether to show that they were already spoken for. In return, women would wear their newfound boyfriend’s scarf.

Because of the locker loop’s ubiquity, it was later taken advantage of in unwelcome ways — intact loops were routinely yanked and ripped for fun. But, roughhousing wasn’t the worst of it. In some instances, an intact loop was used as a way to stoke homophobia and imply that not only was the wearer not in a relationship but they were gay. It was called things like ‘fruit loop’ and ‘fairy tag’, among other derogatory and offensive nicknames.

Today, the locker loop is no longer seen as a symbol in popular culture and it remains an essential element of button-down shirts from makers like Brooks Brothers, Gant and Gitman Vintage. And while you may or may not use this heritage design feature for its intended purpose — hanging it in a locker — you’ll at least know why it’s there.

For more stories like this, check out our series Further Details chronicling ubiquitous but overlooked elements hidden on your favorite products.

– it will focus on sensible advice, rather than illustrating the myriad gimmicks with which menswear seems to be particularly plagued.

There is one really fundamental choice when you’re picking the cuff for a shirt: single or double.

The double cuff

The double, or French cuff was very fashionable 12 years ago, when this website started. It was rare to even see a single cuff in the City for many years. But then, it was also the era of Mad Men and tie clips, so perhaps that was at the root.

Today, double cuffs are rarer, both because the fashion has faded and because they are more formal than a single cuff.

A double cuff is formal because it folds over, hiding the seam at its end. As with black tie trousers, hiding a seam makes things smoother, and is therefore seen as more formal.

That’s great with a suit, or even a smart jacket, but it looks out of place with a woollen blazer or knitwear. That Mad Men era also saw a lot of men wearing the same double-cuffed shirts to the office on a Friday, with chinos. If the smart material or spread collar didn’t tell you this was a mismatched shirt, the cuffs and cufflinks certainly did.

The thing is, single cuffs also look fine with most suits, so they are much more versatile – from worsted to woollen to weekend. It’s understandable that they are becoming much more prevalent, even if dress codes weren’t also tending towards casual.

I’d still encourage readers to have a double-cuffed shirt or two in the wardrobe though. It’s a nice change, and a nice excuse to wear cufflinks – which are, after a watch and a wedding ring, probably still the only universal way for a man to wear jewellery.

Whats the flop at the top of a shirt called năm 2024

Styles of double cuff

There are a few different types of double cuff, principally depending on whether the corners are rounded, angled, or square (see above).

As with much in this area, there’s no real harm in the first two options, but also not much to say on their behalf. If you like them and want to wear them, fine.

But if you start showing them off, or describe them as your ‘style signature’, then you’re focusing on the wrong things. Get into the subtleties of fit or cloth instead.

I’d say the same thing about the cocktail cuff, confusingly referred to as both the Milanese and Neapolitan cuff by some sites.

This is a folded-back cuff that leaves a triangular gap, allowing it to be fastened by buttons instead of a cufflink. I think the best you could say about it is that it’s nifty. At worst it’s a gimmick. Certainly, the fact that James Bond once wore it is not justification enough on its own. If it was, then sprayed-on suits from Tom Ford would be similarly legitimised.

The single cuff

With the single cuff, there are also some small style choices – though I’d suggest the fit choices are more important.

The style choices, as with a double cuff, include whether the protruding corners are rounded, angled or square. Here the rounded end is the default. There’s nothing wrong with the others if you like how they look.

You can also have one, two or even three buttons on the cuff. Here my feelings are stronger. You don’t need more than one button, so why have them? Yes, we don’t need buttons on jacket sleeves either, but they’re a redundancy that’s slowly fading. With multiple cuff buttons you are needlessly adding redundancy.

There may be a functional reason for some people to have multiple buttons. If there is, and I haven’t thought of it, forgive me. Otherwise just have one.

Personally, I quite like the Italian style which places the single button low on the cuff, and close to its edge (below). This is sometimes called an open cuff.

Being lower allows the cuff to open more easily and the wrist to move with more freedom. The smaller overlap created by having the button closer to the edge helps too.

Fit

The fit of a single cuff is trickier.

There is a functional advantage to having it fitted close to the wrist: the sleeve can have some excess length, without the cuff ever slipping further down the hand. And it’s less likely to get pulled back when the arm is extended. Basically, it stays where it’s meant to be.

The disadvantage of this is that you can’t fit a watch underneath. The same goes for the conical style of cuff, where it tapers noticeably towards the hand. It’s one reason Gianni Agnelli took to wearing his watch over the top of his cuff.

(Not something I recommend, personally. Here Tom Ford puts it well: “I think ‘You poor thing’ if I see someone doing that. I did it in the late Seventies, but everyone did. Everyone who was affected and pretentious – as I was in that period of my life – would wear their Cartier Tank watches on top of their shirts because Agnelli did.”)

However, I find it’s possible to sacrifice little in terms of cuff performance, and fit a slim watch underneath. It’s something worth talking to your shirtmaker about – to get the right balance – but it’s not that hard.

Of course, it’s trickier if you wear a big, chunky sports watch with your dress shirts. But thankfully that’s one more trend that seems to be fading away.

Another option is to have one cuff larger than the other, so it can accommodate the watch while the other doesn’t have to. I used to do that, but found it irritating that the two functioned slightly differently. Particularly if for some reason I weren’t wearing a watch one day.

Of my watches, the only one that can be difficult to fit under a cuff is the IWC Portuguese. For those that will ask, by the way, my wrists are skinny at 15cm in circumference, and my shirt cuffs usually 20cm, so a good 5cm of clearance.

Double cuffs are much easier, with most watches usually fitting underneath. But then, being smarter, if anything the watch is likely to be smaller and sleeker too.

Whats the flop at the top of a shirt called năm 2024

The novelties

There are a few other permutations of shirt cuffs.

There is the single cuff made to be fastened with a cufflink, rather like half of a French one (above). There is also the convertible cuff, which has a button that can be tucked inside, to allow you to use a cufflink instead if you wish.

And there are cuffs with tabs that stretch from one side to the other, to fasten with a button. Why, I don’t know.

All this criticism of unusual styles could sound boring – a suppression of expression. But it’s not intended to.

Rather, it’s meant to redirect men’s interest away from novelties and towards more fundamental things: the broad, deep richness of cloth, the fine, intricate work of fit.

People go for gimmicks because they are and easy. Understanding cloth, fit and drape is a lot harder, but in the end more rewarding.

What is the thing at the top of a shirt called?

The Collar It adds style and creates a frame for your tie. While we commonly call everything above the shirt front the 'collar,' technically the collar itself is the fancier cut 'flaps' which attach to a collar stand - the part directly sewn to the shirt which goes around your neck.

What is the flap on a shirt called?

Front Placket (Fused or Soft) A dress shirt Front placket is the most common dress shirt front style. The fabric around the buttonholes is folded back over and sewn with a fused interlining to give it that crisp, dressy appeal.

What is the top part of a shirt?

The neck of a shirt is the top of a shirt located at, surprise, the neck of the body. The neck can be finished in a number of ways including a ribbed collar, such as in t-shirts, or a pointed collar as in buttoned shirts like this Studio D'artisan Sashiko Shirt available at Hinoya.

What are the shirts called that button at the top?

A dress shirt, button shirt, button-front, button-front shirt, or button-up shirt is a garment with a collar and a full-length opening at the front, which is fastened using buttons or shirt studs.